Basic Guide to Using a Handheld Vertical Router (by Mariobrossh)

Just bought a handheld plunge router or thinking of getting one, but not sure where to start? No worries! This beginner-friendly guide explains the basics of how to use it safely and effectively. You'll learn what it’s used for, how to choose the right bits, how to adjust cutting depth, and how to move the router properly to get clean, precise results. It’s the perfect tool for taking your DIY woodworking projects to the next level!

Introduction

In this guide, I aim to illustrate the main features of a vertical router and how to use it. It is important to note that this machine is extremely dangerous due to the tool rotating at around 20,000 rpm. I strongly recommend exercising maximum caution and prudence, making sure to carefully read the accompanying instruction manual provided with the machine.
Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using the machine for purposes other than those for which it is intended.

Main Components of the Handheld Vertical Router

The handheld vertical router is undoubtedly one of the most versatile power tools in woodworking. It can be used for moulding, grooving, trimming, and, in some cases, even cutting.
Let’s take a closer look at the structure of a vertical router. As you might expect, the power button cannot be pressed unless the lock button is engaged first. This feature is designed to prevent accidental activation.

The Plunge Locking Rod

The plunge locking rod is used to lower the tool to the desired depth. It is recommended to preset the plunge depth using the graduated rod specifically designed for this purpose, which is equipped with an adjustment screw, as shown in this photo.
The button for locking the motor shaft, on the other hand, should only be pressed during the installation or removal of the router bit.

The Parallel Guide

A very important accessory is the parallel guide, which is used exclusively for making grooves parallel to the edge of a perfectly straight workpiece.
In my case, as shown in the photo, the guide has been widened to provide greater stability to the machine.

The Copying Ring

Another key feature of this machine is the copying ring, as shown in the following photos. Typically, this ring is included in the set of accessories provided with the tool. However, various sizes are also available on the market to meet different needs.

The copying ring allows the router to follow any contour we want to reproduce, such as specific shapes or templates for dovetail joints, and so on. Naturally, the use of this accessory requires a template or support shape, appropriately crafted, as shown in the photo.

Types of Router Bits 

In the following photo, we can see a selection of router bits, among the most commonly used ones. These are, in this case, an affordable set purchased at a discount shop, ideal for practice.

Broadly speaking, router bits can be divided into two main categories: those for grooving and those for moulding.

• The first type works with the tip of the bit and is used for creating grooves within the wood.
• The second type works along the edge and is used to shape the edge of the wood into various profiles—this operation is called "moulding."

Router bits of the second type can be identified by the presence of a ball bearing at the tip, which rests against the wood’s edge, serving as a guide for the cut.

Router Bits for Grooving

The router bits shown in this image have the following uses:

• (1) Convex radius grooves
• (2) Grooves for creating dovetail joints
• (3) & (4) V-shaped grooves
• (5) & (6) Straight channel grooves

Router Bits for Moulding

The router bits shown in this image have the following uses:

• (1) Convex radius moulding
• (2) Moulding with a shaped profile
• (3) & (4) Concave radius moulding
• (5) Router bit for beveling edges at 45°
• (6) Router bit for trimming

Some Examples of Router Bit Usage

Now, let’s see the results produced on wood by some of the router bits shown earlier. In this photo, we can observe how a router bit with a bearing operates. The bearing serves as a guide during the routing process, ensuring that the cutting edges of the bit engage with the wood until the bearing makes contact with the underlying part of the piece, which acts as the guide.

Edge Rounding with a Concave Radius Moulding Bit

In the photo, we can observe the straightforward rounding of the edge of the piece, achieved using a concave radius moulding bit like the one currently mounted.

Ornamental Effect with Adjusted Moulding Bit

In the next photo, you can see the step created by slightly lowering the same moulding bit by a few millimetres. This adjustment not only rounds off the edge but also creates an ornamental effect.

Routing with a Shaped Profile Moulding Bit

This example shows routing performed with a moulding bit featuring a shaped profile, which is ideal for creating decorative frames or mouldings.

How to Properly Position the Router

Now, let’s look at how the router should be positioned depending on the task at hand. The general rule is: "guide on the right, machine on the left, and vice versa," with a counter-clockwise movement.
For straight grooves where the provided side guide cannot be used, you can opt for a straightedge or an aluminium guide positioned on the piece to be routed, as shown in the photo. This guide must be securely fastened and perfectly squared.
The machine should adhere to the guide using the rounded part of the router’s base. It should be pulled towards you while pressing firmly against the guide.
I advise against using the flat part of the router’s base since even a slight movement could cause the machine to lose contact with the guide, jeopardising the routing. By contrast, the rounded part is symmetrical, ensuring that even if the machine rotates, the distance between the guide and the router bit remains consistent.

Direction of Router Movement

Here, we can observe how the router should be moved when rounding off the outer edge of a small panel or a tabletop.
For solid wood, it is recommended to start by routing the edge where the wood grain ends (end grain) first.

In the case of routing edges on an internal opening within a panel, the direction of rotation must necessarily be clockwise.

Making Circles with the Router

Another fascinating use of the router is for making circles, whether to cut out a circular piece or to create circular grooves—for example, for a frame.
To achieve this, a straight grooving bit is required, along with the guide provided, equipped with a special pivot that serves as the fulcrum, as shown in the photo. For this task, the machine should be plunged no deeper than 5 mm and then rotated slowly in a clockwise direction.
If the intention is to cut out the piece, the process must be repeated multiple times, lowering the bit by 5 mm on each pass until the entire thickness of the wood is cut through.
Working with a deeper plunge increases friction, which could result in burnt wood and excessive overheating of the router bit.

DIY Template for Making Circles

As an alternative to the provided system for creating circles, you can build a simple custom template, as shown in the photo, even using a 6 mm plywood piece. This plywood can be appropriately drilled to securely fix the machine, allowing you to add as many holes as needed for the pivot. This setup provides the flexibility to create circles of any size.

Well, even if somewhat essential, it seems we've covered most of the common uses of a handheld router. Should you have any doubts, questions, or suggestions, feel free to ask. You can do so in the already-open discussion thread on the forum at the following link:
https://www.ilsitodelfaidate.it/FDTForum/viewtopic.php?t=9409

Thank You
Mariobrossh