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Got an empty space under your stairs and want to make it useful? In this article, we show you how to build a custom-made unit to make the most of that awkward spot. Whether you're planning a shoe rack, a cupboard or just some storage shelves, this DIY project will guide you step by step — perfect for anyone with a bit of skill and the desire to put it to good use.
Introduction
Our forum friend Johno had an under-stair space to 'furnish'. Spaces like this often end up being filled with a jumble of objects, poorly utilising the available room and leaving an impression of clutter.
However, when he considered furnishing the space with ready-made furniture, he encountered some challenges:
- Standard furniture pieces typically have a depth of 600mm, whereas the under-stair area was 870mm deep.
- A piece of furniture could only partly fill the space, as its rectangular shape didn't suit the peculiar layout of this area.
The idea for building a DIY under-stair cabinet
At this point, the only viable and reasonably affordable solution was a DIY approach. Starting with a concept, browsing the internet, and adapting pre-existing solutions, Johno designed a sliding under-stair cabinet. Luckily for us, he documented the various stages of his work with photos.
The idea was to create three sliding drawers of different shapes and sizes that would fit the configuration of the under-stair space. He began by building three frames to divide the space into three sections of equal width, which would also serve as guides for the drawers to slide.
Building the frames to divide the space
For constructing the frames, smooth-finished wooden bars with a 45x55 mm cross-section were used. By visiting several DIY stores, bars of 2 metres in length were found, with prices ranging between €5.20 and €8.50 each. Given the need to purchase several, shopping around for the best price helped save a few euros.
The frames were built slightly narrower than the stairs, leaving a 2 to 3 cm gap necessary to act as a stop for the cupboard doors while still allowing them to fit flush with the edge of the stairs.
To secure the three frames, the following measures were taken:
- A wooden bar (the same used for constructing the frames) was fixed to the edge of the stairs using wall plugs, recessed by 2 to 3 cm, for the upper front attachment.
- Two wall plugs (one at the top and one at the bottom) were used for the rear attachment, ensuring spacers were placed between the frames and the wall. These spacers matched the thickness of the skirting board to maintain the correct distance from the wall.
- At this point, the frames should be sufficiently stable. To prevent any potential wobbling of the free lower part, a small drop of silicone was applied to keep it securely in place.
Building the sliding drawer modules
The first step in constructing the sliding modules is to build the three bases with wheels. The dimensions must always account for the thickness of the cupboard door, which will rest against the frames. Once placed in their designated spaces, the bases should align flush with the frames, leaving a margin of about 1 cm at the back to avoid being too tight with the measurements.
Choosing the wheels for sliding drawers
For the sliding mechanism, wheels purchased from a DIY store were used. By shopping around at different stores, prices ranged from €2 to €3 each. Considering that four wheels are needed for each of the three drawers, a total of 12 wheels were required, making the cost difference noticeable.
Dowel joint assembly
For assembling all the joints (not just for building the frames), the so-called "dowel jointing" method was used. This involves using small wooden cylinders, known as dowels, which fit into specially drilled holes made with a drill.
To align the holes on the two parts being joined, special guides are used to transfer the position of the hole on the first piece onto the second, ensuring they match perfectly.
Naturally, in addition to wooden dowels, something else is needed to secure the joints, such as glue and/or screws. If the structure is not intended to be dismantled, it’s advisable to use both. Otherwise, screws alone can suffice. For the glue, standard PVA glue works perfectly.
Tightening with wood screws
Regarding screws, both classic wood screws with a tapered threaded section and those commonly referred to as "self-tapping" screws with a cylindrical body can be used. Both types are available in zinc-plated or brass-plated finishes, with the latter being slightly more expensive but personally preferred.
Before inserting the screws, it’s advisable to drill pilot holes (more precisely called "guide holes") as deep as the full length of the screw, using a drill bit with a diameter smaller than the screw itself. The diameter should match or be slightly smaller than the "core" of the screw, which is the inner part of the threading. Without these holes, inserting the screws would not only be more challenging but could also cause the wood fibres to expand, potentially leading to splits.
Opting for screws with a cross-head design simplifies the use of electric screwdrivers. Additionally, running the threading over a bar of soap softened with water beforehand will make screwing them in less strenuous.
After building the rectangular bases to which the wheels are attached, identical bases will be constructed for the upper platforms. Using bars cut to the correct dimensions, structures in the shape of parallelepipeds will be assembled to form the framework of the sliding drawers.
Adding shelves and a clothes rail
Shelves placed above the drawers provide additional surfaces and make use of the space above them. In the highest drawer, a horizontal rail was installed to use the drawer as a wardrobe, allowing hangers with jackets, coats, and clothes to be stored.
Building the front panels
The front panels were made from lacquered particleboard cupboard doors purchased specifically from Ikea kitchen furniture. A chrome edging was used to cover the cut surface and to reinforce it, as the upper part of the door is the most prone to being bumped.
The interior of the drawers can be designed as desired, with shelves, additional drawer units, or even, as in the case shown in the photo, with a clothes rail. In the latter case, a wooden bar placed on the side prevents the sleeves of garments from spilling over the edges and getting caught during the opening and closing of the drawers.
And here it is—the little miracle Johno managed to achieve at the end of his work.
For those who would like to read the original forum post and leave a comment, they can do so at this link:
http://www.ilsitodelfaidate.it/FDTForum/viewtopic.php?t=7278