Indice
- Introduction
- The assembly diagram
- Building a template to simplify the assembly
- Preparing the door and the side panel
- How to use the template
- Marking the side panel
- Drilling the hinge housing
- Installing the hinge
- Installing the hinge base
- Adjusting the hinge
- Final adjustments and alignment
- Notes on the different types of snap-on hinges
- Total overlay hinge
- Partial overlay hinge
- Inset hinge (zero overlay)
- Conclusion
Introduction
Installing cup hinges (also known as concealed or snap-on hinges) may seem tricky, but with a few tips, it's easier than you think. This guide walks you through the full process of fitting these hinges, which are commonly used on kitchen cabinet doors. You'll also find diagrams showing the correct measurements and positioning for the holes, plus a clever trick to create your own DIY jig — ideal if you’re doing multiple doors and want a quick, accurate setup.
I’m bringing back this tutorial to better showcase, in a simpler and more comprehensive way, how to install the classic snap-on hinges (also known as invisible hinges or cup hinges) commonly used on cabinet doors of all kinds.
The assembly diagram
First, I drew up the assembly diagram for the hinges, featuring a 35 mm diameter base and a total overlay of 18 mm.

Building a template to simplify the assembly
As you'll see in the following photos, I created a small DIY template to precisely mark where the holes need to be drilled—both for the hinge housing and its fixing screws, as well as for the screws of the hinge base. To build the template, I used a piece of plywood and a strip of wood to act as a stop. To make the holes in the template, I transferred the distances shown in the diagram (measured from the edge) to the template, naturally starting from the stop. Additionally, I marked a line on the upper side of the template that runs through the centre of the hinge holes. This line helps align the template with the pieces to be drilled.

Preparing the door and the side panel
Once the measurements were transferred onto the template, the first step was to place both the door and the side panel on a flat surface. Then, a line was drawn on both pieces, 10–11 cm from the edge (either the top or bottom), to serve as a reference for aligning the template later.

How to use the template
As you can see, one side of the template includes references for the central cup hole and the hinge screws, which is the side meant for the door. On the other side, you’ll find references for the screws to fix the hinge base to the side panel of the furniture. Both sides are aligned using the stop on the wooden strip (which is located on the side of the base that isn’t visible in the photo) and the mark indicating where the centre of the hinge will be positioned. If you prefer, considering the different positions of the holes, it’s possible to include all the references on the same side of the template. However, this approach is more prone to errors.
At this point, align the mark made in the centre of the template’s door-facing side with the line previously drawn on the door, and use a small nail to mark the holes.

Marking the side panel
Next, using the other side of the template, we mark the side panel of the furniture where the hinge base will be fixed.

Drilling the hinge housing
Now, we need to drill the hole for the hinge housing using a Forstner bit. I recommend using a drill press or, if that's not available, a plunger support or a similar attachment for an electric drill, like the one shown in the photo.

Installing the hinge
Now, we place the hinge into the holes drilled on the door. This step ensures the hinge is securely seated and ready for the next phase of assembly.

Installing the hinge base
Meanwhile, the hinge base will be mounted into the pre-drilled holes on the side panel of the furniture. This ensures a secure and precise fit for the hinge mechanism.

Adjusting the hinge
Now, we can assemble the two parts and proceed with any necessary adjustments using the specific screws. For this type of hinge, adjustments can be made without moving the door but simply by turning the three screws indicated by the arrows:
- Screw A: Adjusts the horizontal displacement of the door, determining whether the door moves closer to or further away from the side panel edge.
- Screw B: Adjusts the vertical movement of the door.
- Screw C: Adjusts the forward/backward displacement of the door.

Final adjustments and alignment
After completing all the adjustments, we should achieve a result like this. However, once the doors are mounted, they may be affected by other factors that can influence their alignment. These factors could include uneven flooring, warped doors, or furniture that isn't perfectly squared.

Thank you all!
Mariobrossh
Notes on the different types of snap-on hinges
I wanted to add a few clarifications to this incredibly useful tutorial that Mario (Mariobrossh) shared on the forum, which I’ve simply brought over to the website to ensure it’s accessible to as many people as possible. Mario stated that the guide focuses on installing snap-on hinges (or invisible hinges) of the "total overlay" type. These hinges have a straight shank and are commonly used for cabinet doors, particularly in kitchens. Below, I’ve included a brief list of hinge types and the differences in their uses for reference.
Additionally, I’d like to point out that the dimensions for the holes in Mario's template might vary if using hinges from different manufacturers. As a best practice, it's always a good idea to double-check these measurements before creating your own template.

Total overlay hinge
From the diagram, you can see that this type of hinge allows the door, when closed, to completely cover the edge of the side panel of the furniture. Aesthetically, it is the most appealing, as it leaves only the door visible (which is typically made of more refined wood), concealing the "box-like structures" that are usually made of less "noble" materials.

Partial overlay hinge
he principle is identical to that of total overlay hinges, but these are used when a dividing panel in a piece of furniture has doors mounted on both sides. In this case, each of the two doors must cover only half of the edge of the side panel, as shown in the diagram. For this type of hinge, the shank has a bent shape, but the installation follows the same principles as the total overlay hinge.

Inset hinge (zero overlay)
This type of hinge differs from the previous ones as it allows the door to be recessed within the side panel. For this reason, as shown in the photo, this hinge must be mounted further back compared to the others, depending on the thickness of the door and whether you want to achieve a full inset (flush with the edge) or a partial one.

Conclusion
I hope this latest gem, which the ever-patient Mario has taken the time to write, proves useful to you all. If you have any questions or suggestions (or if you'd like to leave a thank-you note for Mariobrossh for the time he dedicated to creating this incredibly helpful guide), you can do so in the ongoing discussion on the forum at the following link
How to install snap hinges
Thank you
Luciano (Capitan Farloc)





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