Fixing a Dripping Screw Faucet (by Capitan Farloc)

Introduction

Is your old compression tap still dripping even when tightly closed? Don’t worry — it’s a common issue, and thankfully, it’s also easy to fix! In this step-by-step guide, I’ll show you how to stop the leak by replacing the internal washer using just a few basic tools most DIYers already have. With clear photos and practical tips, you’ll get your tap working like new again — no plumber needed!
The first thing to do is, of course, to shut off the water supply valve to prevent flooding your home. Then, proceed with disassembling the faucet, starting with the top handle, which is usually secured by a screw. This screw may be visible or, as shown in the picture, hidden beneath a press-fitted cover cap.

Removing the Handle

Once the locking screw is loosened, the handle should come off fairly easily. At this point, the faucet body (which is made of brass) should be visible. There are two nuts on it: a smaller one at the top, where the faucet spindle emerges, and another lower down.
The one that needs to be removed is the lower nut, but before doing so, you must first remove the chrome ring that obstructs access to it.

Removing the Chrome Ring

To remove the chrome ring covering the faucet, firmly grip it and unscrew it.
If it is stuck, you can use a rubber strap wrench or, if unavailable, a pipe wrench. However, be sure to protect the surface with a piece of inner tube rubber or thick fabric to prevent scratches.
Once unscrewed, the ring will slide off from the top, exposing the faucet body.

Removing the Faucet Body

Now that the chrome ring has been removed, use an appropriately sized wrench to unscrew the nut securing the faucet body.
Before proceeding, I recommend opening the faucet by placing the handle on the spindle. This prevents unnecessary resistance, making it easier to disassemble the faucet body.

Replacing the Rubber Gasket

Once the assembly is unscrewed from its position, it will appear as shown in the picture. You can check the faucet’s internal mechanism by turning the spindle—this will cause the piston (on the left side of the image) to move up and down. This action ensures that the gasket (the rubber piece mounted on top of the piston) presses against the bottom of the faucet, sealing off the water flow.
The old rubber gasket must be removed—sometimes it is secured by a nut or screw, while other times it is simply wedged or screwed into place. Replace it with a new gasket of the same dimensions.

Refinishing the Faucet Seat

At this point, the repair might be complete, and you could reassemble the faucet. However, if the faucet is particularly old or has been leaking for a long time, it may be beneficial to refinish the faucet seat.
To do this, you’ll need a specialized tool called a faucet seat grinder, which is available at well-stocked hardware stores and plumbing supply shops.

Checking the Faucet Seat

If you look down into the part of the faucet that remains attached, you'll see the faucet seat, which is the surface where the newly replaced gasket presses to stop the water flow.
By running your fingertip over the seat, you can check if there are grooves or irregularities. If the surface feels rough, use the faucet seat grinder mentioned earlier. Screw it in place, press gently on the knob, and rotate it clockwise to smooth out the seat.
Periodically unscrew the tool and inspect the progress. Once the seat is as smooth as shown in the picture, you can reassemble everything. Now, even a slight turn of the handle will ensure a perfect seal, and the faucet will work as good as new.

Thanks to everyone who made it this far!

Best regards
Luciano (Capitan Farloc)