English (United Kingdom) 
Italiano (Italia) 
Indice
Have an open bookcase or shelving unit you’d like to close off for a tidier look? This guide shows you how to build simple cupboard doors using plywood or laminated chipboard — perfect for DIY enthusiasts. With a few basic tools and a bit of hands-on effort, you can create custom doors to neatly finish off your furniture, combining practicality with a clean appearance.
Introduction
In the corner of the house dedicated to the study and workshop, I had previously installed several white laminated particleboard shelving units, which are reasonably priced at furniture stores and Ikea.
Admittedly, organisation has never been my strong suit, and as time passed, the shelves ended up looking exactly like in the photo...
For the sake of family harmony, I decided to tackle the problem by creating doors to make everything at least visually more pleasant. Essentially, “the mess is there, but you can’t see it.” ;-)
Materials used
To start, the cabinet already had a pair of doors on each lower shelf and was equipped with pre-drilled holes on the uprights for fitting doors of various sizes depending on shelf configuration.
The first step was to visit a DIY store to find snap hinges (the type commonly used on kitchen cabinet doors) and handles similar to those already on the existing doors. For the hinges, zero-overlay snap hinges were used, as this was the type employed on the existing doors.
If you'd like to delve deeper into snap hinges, their installation, and the different types available, I recommend checking out this interesting article by Mariobrossh:
Guide to Installing Snap-On or Cup Hinges (by Mariobrossh)
Which wood to use?
I first measured the dimensions I wanted for the doors and went to a timber shop, where I had pieces of white laminated particleboard cut to size. Naturally, my choice was influenced by the fact that the cabinet is located in a room used as a study/workshop, so the final aesthetic wasn't a priority, and I opted for the most economical solution.
Alternatively, plywood can be used—it’s lighter, sturdier, and easier to work with, but it’s certainly more expensive. On the purchased pieces, I applied hot glue to attach laminate edging to finish the doors. The edging must be bought slightly wider than the thickness of the piece it's being applied to and then trimmed using the appropriate tool once in place.
It’s worth mentioning that timber sellers who offer pre-cut pieces often have the machinery to apply hot-glue edging as well. However, having it done professionally increases the cost of the finished pieces.
Preparing a template for hinge hole placement
Once the pieces are cut to size and finished with the hot-glued laminate edging, assembly can begin. The first step is to mark the positions for both the handle holes and the blind holes for the hinges.
To avoid measuring each time, a custom template was made using cardboard. By simply aligning the cardboard with the edge, it was easy to mark the drilling points with a pencil (or a marker, as in my case). The same template was also used to indicate the positions for the two holes required for the door handle.
Drilling hinge holes
To create the holes for embedding the hinges, a Forstner bit, brad-point bit, or wood cutting bit of the correct size can be used. Regardless of the type of bit chosen, a drill press is essential, or alternatively, an attachment that stabilises an electric drill to ensure it remains perfectly vertical. This setup also allows for setting a depth stop, preventing the drill from going too far and accidentally breaking through the opposite side.
If working with particleboard, as I did, extra caution is needed because the glue in the particleboard significantly increases friction, which can overheat the drill bit.
Hinge installation on the doors
Once the holes are drilled, the hinges need to be secured. To align them perfectly, I place a board against the edge of both hinges. This method ensures they are positioned correctly without requiring any additional measurements.
To secure the hinges, appropriate Parker screws or wood screws should be used. As the laminate tends to be slippery, it is advisable to make a mark with a nail before drilling. This mark acts as a guide for the drill bit, preventing it from slipping out of place.
Before inserting the screw, it's always a good practice to drill a pilot hole. This prevents the expansion caused by the screw's conical shape from damaging the material.
Mounting the doors onto the cabinet
The pre-drilled holes in the cabinet, intended for both hinge installation and shelf supports, were meant to accommodate plastic inserts for screwing in the bolts. Unsure if such inserts are available in stores, I resolved the issue by using "Fisher" wall plugs, gently tapping them into the holes with a hammer until they were firmly in place.
The protruding part of the wall plug was trimmed using an ordinary utility knife (or "cutter," if we want to use the English term).
If we measured correctly, securing the hinges should be straightforward by tightening the screws into the holes with the wall plugs we inserted.
After this step, the hinges need to be adjusted: slightly shifting the doors up or down to prevent them from touching the doors above or below, and adjusting the depth to ensure the two doors don’t collide. The goal is to achieve the most uniform gap possible.
For more information about how snap hinge adjustments work, I recommend the article by Mariobrossh:
Guide to Installing Snap-On or Cup Hinges (by Mariobrossh)
Final effect of the shelf with doors
Here is the final effect with the doors installed and adjusted. The bookshelf now looks much tidier with the doors in place.
I hope this brief guide can be helpful, and I wish you all good luck with your DIY projects!
Thank you all
Luciano (Capitan Farloc)